Overseaming sewing-machine.



PATENTED JUNE 30, 1903.

W. H. STEDMAN. QVERSEAMING SEWING, MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED D30. 18, 1901.

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PATENTED JUNE 30, 1903.

w. HfSTEDMAN.

OVERSEAMING' SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 18, 1901.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2 I0 MODEL.

INVENT ITNEISBEIS TTQRNEIYE,

, No. 792,457. PATENTED JUNE 30, 1903.

w. H. STEDMAN.

OVERSEAMING SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 18, 1901. NOMOD'EI...

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UNITED STATES latented. June 30, 1903.

PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM H. STEDMAN, OF HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE MERROW MACHINE COMPANY, OF HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT, A COR- PORATION OF CONNECTICUT.

OVERSEAMING SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent. No. 732,457, dated June 30, 1903.

' Application filed December 18,1901. Serial No. 86,440. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, WILLIAM H. STEDMAN, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city and county of Hartford, State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Overseaming Sewing: Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the acro companying drawings, forming a part of this specification, and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

This invention relates to the stitch-forming mechanism of sewing-machines, and has for its objects the provision of instrumentalities for the production of a two-thread overseaming-stitch of the buttonhole type capable of being operated at Very high speed and of being readily adjusted relatively to each other, the character of said instrumentalities being such as to permit of their ready adaptation to a class of driving mechanism already in use in sewing-machines. These implements, briefly described, are, first, a thread-carrying needle; second, a looper carrying a second thread, and, third, a loop-carrier, said implements being actuated to operate upon the threads, the first thread being carried by the needle in the usual manner through the material, the second thread being carried by its looper through a loop of the first or needle thread, and a loop of this second or'looper threadbeing then carried by the loop-carrier to the opposite side of the material, where it is entered by the needle.

In the machine shown in the drawings the stitch-forming implements are actuated by a well-known type of driving mechanism,which will be briefly described hereinafter.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a front elevation of an overseaming sewing-machine fitted with this stitch-forming mechanism. Fig. 2 is an elevation of the said machine looking from the left hand of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is an edge view of the door forming a portion of the frame of the machine and supporting the carriers for the looper and loop-carrier. Fig. 4 is a front view showing the loop-carrier, the looper, and their supports and carriers,

together with their actuating-cams. Fig. 5 is so a plan view of the block and carrier and elements of the stitch-forming mechanism immediately related thereto, including the needle-plate, the door of the machine-casing being shown in horizontal cross-section. Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 are a series of perspective views generally illustrating in order of their succession successive operations of the stitch-forming implements in the production of a stitch.

Referring to the drawings, the number 10 denotes the frame of the machine; 11, the head; 12,the main shaft; 13, thehand-wheel; 14, the lower main cam; 15, the upper main cam; 16, the sliding block; 17, the'carrier; 18, the needle-carrier; 19, the needle-carrier connection; 20, the upper cam-shaft; 21, the wrist-pin; 22, the presser-foot; 23, the workplate; 24, the feed-dog; 25, the feed-carrier;

26, the feed-raising cam; 27, the feeding-cam. 7o

The main shaft 12 is journaled in the frame of the machine and carries the lower cam 14 and also operates the feed mechanism. The upper cam 15 is supported upon and secured to its shaft 20, which is also journaled in the g frame of the machine. The two cams l4 and 15 are provided with spur-gears 14 15, attached thereto or made integral therewith,and these gears are in mesh to secure simultaneous rotation of the cams. One of the said cams is provided with a groove 14 and the other with a groove 15, which are adapted to receive cam-rolls 17, mounted upon pins 17, attached to the carrier 17, which latter is pivotally supported upon a pin 16 on the sliding block 16, arranged to slide longitudinally between the beveled gibs 1O 10 on the door 10 of the frame.

The looper 28 and the loop-carrier 29 are secured, respectively, to the sliding block 16 and the carrier 17 by set-screws 28 29 in order that the said implements may be adjusted longitudinally or angularly with relation to their supports.

When the cams l4 and 15 are rotated, the sliding block 16, with the looper 28, is reciprocatedin a right line perpendicular to the plane in which the needle 31 vibrates, and

the carrier 17, mounted on the said block, is reciprocated with thelatter. The cam-grooves 14 15 are of such form that at each revolution the looper 28 and the loop-carrier 20 are carried in unison forward under the needleplate 23, then backward in right lines, the loop-carrier 29 being then tilted upward and around the edge of the needle-plate or worksupport 23, the edge of which is provided with a finger 23, then carried forward above the needle-plate 23, then back and downward around the edge of the plate 23 to its firstmentioned position, the looper meanwhile always moving in a right line forward and back beneath the work support or plate.

The upper cam 15 and its shaft 20 are keyed together, and the needle 31 is reciprocated when the cams 11 and 15 are rotated by means of the connection 19, pivotally connected to the wrist-pin 21 on the shaft and to a pin 19 on the needle-carrier 18, the latter being pivotally supported by the screw 18'. The needle 31 is secured to its carrier 18 by a clamp 18 and screw 18.

The presser-foot 22 is adapted to slide vertically in a groove in the head of the machine and is held downward upon the needle-plate by the spring 22 for the purpose of clamping the fabric in a manner common in sewingmachines.

Describing more particularly the looper 28 and the loop-carrier 29, the former is of hook shape, as shown, having an elongated shank that is received and clamped within the block 16, while the operating end of theimplement is turned back substantially parallel with the shank and toward the block 16 and is eyepointed, as denoted by the reference-number 28, and is preferably slabbed atits back side or the side away from the needle just in the rear of its point, said point being there by formed with an enlargement 28", in which the eye of the implement is located. The loop-carrier 29 is secured to the carrier 17, and its outer pointed end 29 is turned upward and notched, as at 29.

The looper 28 in its reciprocations is adapted to pass just in the rear of the needle 31 when the latter is in its lowest position, and the point 29 of the loop-carrier 29 as the latter is tilted is adapted to pass directly in the rear of the enlargement 28 of the looper 28.

To enable the several elements to assume the positions relatively to each other just described, the looper and loop-carrier are adjustable longitudinally and may be rotated in their supports, and their shanks may be bent or offset, as shown in Fig. 5, the exact shape of these elements, as shown, not being essential to their successful operation.

In threading up the machine the needle 31 receives its thread in the usual manner, as shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings. In connection with the looper 28, however, in order that it may perform its work to the best advantage in the manner to be described it is preferable that the looper-thread 33 shall render to the eye of the looper from a point at the left thereof as the machine is viewed in Fig. 1 and approximately in line with or near the line of travel of the operating portion of the looper. Thus the thread 33 will lie in close proximity to the looper, as shown in Figs. 5 to 12, inclusive, of the drawings. To permit the rendering of the thread to the looper-eye in the manner mentioned, there is attached to the under side of the needle-plate 23 a thread guide and support 23 of hook form, said guide being located on the side of the needle opening opposite the edge of the work-support around which the stitches are formed. In threading up the looper 28 its thread after being passed between the usual tension-disks is led in turn through an eye 10 located on the door 10, a take-up eye 16", located on the block 16 and extending through a slot 10" in the door 10, an eye 10, also located in the said door, and thence to and through a passage in a block 30, located beneath the needle-plate, and from the said passage in the block 30 the thread 33 is looped around the hookshaped guide and support 23, that it may render to the looper-eye in the manner already set forth and as shown in Fig. 5.

Having now described the stitch-forming implements and their motions, an explanation will be given of the manner in which the same operate to effect the formation of a stitch, particular reference being called to Figs. 6 to 12, inclusive, of the drawings.

The overseamiug stitch which the improved machine is capable of producing is well known and consists of loops formed from the second or looper thread and laid on the upper face of the fabric, said loops extending from and substantially at right angles to the edge of the fabric and at their doubled end being secured by the main or needle thread, which passes through the fabric and secures the loops bya line of stitching. Beneath the fabric the needle-thread is drawn outin loops, which at the edge of the fabric inclose the loops of the second thread, the character of the stitch being readily understood by reference to the drawings.

In Fig. 6 the needle 31 is shown as having reached the lowest point in its travel, and the looper 28 and the loop-carrier 29 (the latter beneath the work-plate) as having reached the end of their travel toward the left, the several elements being now ready to begin their return travel, as indicated by the doublepointed arrows. The main or needle thread 32 and the second or looper thread 33 are. shown in the drawings as leading from their respective implements to previously-formed stitches in the fabric 84.

When the looper 28 is in the position shown in Fig. 6, the point of the same is somewhat to the left of the needle, and upon the travel of the looper toward the right its point 28 enters between the needle and the portion 32 of the thread 32 leading from the eye of the latter to the fabric 34, and as the looper continues to travel toward the right the portion 33 of the looper-thread 33 leading from the eye of the looper is carried between the needle and the needle-thread, as shown in Fig. 7, in which figure a portion of the needle is broken away to better disclose the threads. The needle 31 moves upward substantially simultaneously with the movement toward the right of the looper'28 and loopcarrier 29, and when the said looper and loopcarrier have reachedapproximately the end of their travel toward the right the loop-carrier 29 is tilted upward and its upturned point 29 enters between the looper and the thread. portion 33 of the looper-thread directly in the rear of the enlargement 28 of the said looper, as shown in Fig. 8. They upward travel of the needle 31 serves to convert the needle-thread portion 32 into a loop which incloses the operative portion of the looper-thread 33, rendering to the eye thereof, and the portion 33 of the looper-thread 33, as also shown in Fig. 8. The needle 31 and the loop -carrier 29 continue to travel upward, and the latter also begins to travel toward the left, as does also the looper 28, as shown by the arrows in Fig. 9. The upward travel ofthe loop-carrier 29 serves to convert the looper-thread portion 33 engaged thereby into a loop which is drawn through the needle-thread loop 32, and when the looper 28 has traveled sufficiently to the left to cause its point to withdraw from the said loop 2 of the needle-thread the last-named loop draws up against the edge of the fabric 34 to hold in position the loop 33 of the looper-thread which draws therethrough, as shown in Fig. 9. The loop-carrier 29 continues to travel toward the left until the loop 33 is carried directly across the path of the needlepoint, which latter now begins to descend, and as the loop-carrier again begins to travel toward the right the point of the needle enters the said loop 33, as shown in Fig. 10, and travels downward within the same, penetrating the fabric 34, thereby laying and securing the said loop to the upper face of the fabric by means of the needle-thread 32, as shown in Fig. 11. The loop-carrier continues to travel toward the right, at the same time tilting downward with the downward movement of the needle, the loop 33 remaining in the notch 29, as shown in said Fig. 11, until when approximately at the end of its travel in the last-named direction the said loop-carrier withdraws from the loop 33 and moves downward into its lowest position, as shown in Fig. 12, leaving the loop free to be drawn taut. The several elements of the stitch-forming mechanism now traveling in the direction indicated by their respective arrows return to their original or starting positions (shown in Fig. 6) in readiness to repeat the already-described cycle of operations in forming a stitch.

The provision of a thread-guide 23 in substantially the position shown and described or the provision of means whereby the looperthread is caused to render tothe looper-eye from a point at the left. of the looper, as the machine is viewed in Fig. 1, is quite essential with the stitch-forming implements operating as shown and described in order that the said thread shall lie closely to the looper and in rendering thereto shall not move inapath crossing the needle-point when the latter is in its lower position, and also that the needle shall not pass on the wrong side of thelooperthread when moving downward and shall not penetrate the said thread.

It will be understood that during the elevation of the needle the feeding of the fabric occurs to cause each loop laid upon and secured to the upper face of the fabric in the downward travel of the needlev to be positioned a given distance from that immediately preceding.

While the formation of the stitch has been described as having been accomplished at the edge of the fabric, it will be understood that the stitches are ordinarily formed around a finger 23' of the needle-plate 23, from off the end of which finger they slip as the fabric34 is fed forward.

While the operation of forming the stitches has been described with some minuteness of detail, itmay be remarked that considerable variation may be made in the relative positions or timing of movements of the implements herein employed without materially affecting their manner of operation, and it maybe noted that variations of the relative tensions of the two threads, as well as the length of the feed of the fabric, influence the appearance of the overseam finish.

Having thus described my invention, what.

I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In an overseaming-machine the combination of the following instrumentalities, to wit, a work-support, a reciprocating threadcarrying needle, a thread-carrying looper beneath the work-support guided to reciprocate in right lines and having an eye-pointed portion doubled back substantially parallel with its shank, a loop-carrier having a combined reciprocatoryand oscillatory motion, driving mechanismsnch as cams 14 and 15-for actuating the loop and loop-carrier whereby a loop of looper-thread is passed through a loop of needle-threadtand carried by the loop-carrier over the edge of the work-support and into the path of the needle, substantially as described.

2. In an overseaming-machine the combination of the following instrumentalities, to wit; a work-support, a reciprocatory threadcarrying needle, a thread-carrying looper beneath the work-support guided to reciprocate in right lines and having an eye-pointed portion doubled back substantially parallel with its shank, a loop-carrier pivoted on the support for the thread-carrying looper having a IIO reciprocation toward and from the needle below the work-support and an oscillation from the under to the upper side of the work-support and reciprocation toward and from the needle above the work-support, means for operating the looper and loop-carrier and driving mechanism for the needle; substantially as described.

In an overseaming-machine, a work-support, a reciprocating, thread-carrying needle, a looper beneath the work-support having an eye-pointed end that is bent back substantially parallel with its shank, a block in which the looper is secured, gibs or ways supporting the block and means for actuating the latter and the looper to travel in a right line perpendicular to the plane in which the needle reciprocates to cause the doubled eye-pointed portion of the looper to. pass a loop of its thread through a loop of the needle-thread when moving toward the said ways, a loopcarrier secured in a support pivoted to the block and reciprocating therewith and oscillating thereon to cause the said loop-carrier to coaet with the looper below and the needle above the work-support to transfer a loop of looper-thread from the looper to the needle,

and means for actuating the said looper, loopcarrier and needle; substantiallyasdescribed.

4c. In an ovcrseaming-machine, awork-support, a reciprocating thread-carrying needle, a looperbeneath the work-support having an eye-pointed end that is bent back substantially parallel with its shank and being adapted to move in a right line perpendicular to the plane in which the needle reciprocates to cause the eye-pointed portion of the looper to pass a loop of its thread through a loop of the needle-thread when moving in the direction in which its point extends, a loop-carrier having reciprocatory motion and also oscillatory motion whereby the said loop-carrier alternately coacts with the looper when below and the needle when above the work-support to transfer a loop of looper-thread from the looper to the needle and means whereby the looper and'loop-carrier are supported at one and the same side of the needle and means for operating the needle and looper and loopcarrier; substantially as described.

\VILLIAM H. STEDMAN. \Vi tnesses:

W. AJW. STEWART, ALONZO M. LUTHER. 

